Can You Really Travel on the Cheap in Africa? Let’s Ask HoboTraveler Andy Graham

Africa travel

Each time I put out a new edition of The World’s Cheapest Destinations, I always try to find a way to get another African country in there and always come up short when I start digging into the research. So I only have Morocco and Egypt and always get some swipes from reviewers or blog readers for devoting so little space to Africa.

The problem is, that flack usually comes from people who have never tried to travel overland on a budget. Every time I interview someone who has spent weeks or months backpacking in Africa, they inevitably say some version of these two sentences. “Unless you sleep and eat like a local, you’re going to spend far more than you expected” and “for such poor countries, prices for travelers are really high.”

These two similar statements derive from a whole litany of reasons related to economics, infrastructure, and history. It doesn’t help that three of the last four years the $5 million Mo Ibrahim prize for good governance in Africa has gone to…nobody.

The one Africa traveler who hasn’t given me this usual negative litany is ultra-savvy budget traveler Andy Graham, better known as the Hobo Traveler. He’s been on the road non-stop for 14 years and has spent a fair chunk of that in Africa.

I caught up with him via Skype while he was hanging out in Lome, Togo, a faded bohemian French Colonial town on the Atlantic coast. He describes it as “like 1920s Paris, the cultural whorehouse of West Africa.”

We talked about the need to avoid the big tourist draws and agreed that you probably need a Western Europe sized budget if you’re going to the safari destinations of Kenya, Tanzania, Botswana, or Namibia. Here’s my quote from him on the most popular destination though: “I have no desire to go to South Africa, partly because it’s got three times the cost of living of any other country on the continent and partly because it has the highest rate of crime and AIDS. Yet that’s where all the travelers go at some point.”

That still leaves 40-some countries out there though. Here are his opinionated tips for traveling the continent on a budget.

Know your mission and stick to the mission.
“The media has pummeled Africa with this perception that it is such a poor mess. So most of the white people here are missionaries, state-sponsored aid workers, or are working for non-governmental agencies. There aren’t a whole lot of real travelers. Most people seem to travel so they can have good memories they can explain to their friends. I tell people I’m going to Africa they say, Who are you trying to save?’

So the first question is, why are you coming? The average traveler hates Africa. He or she has a list of things to see and do. Most of Africa is not for that, it’s a place for a cultural trip, for learning about people, languages, customs. There are very few animals in Western Africa because they ate them all or poached them. The British saved them in Kenya and elsewhere for hunting preserves. Only a few spots have a lot of them. On most of the continent it’s about connecting with people—black people of course—-which is not why most people travel. ”

Don’t come for the same reasons you went to Peru or Egypt
“Don’t come to Africa to find things to brag about with your friends back home. If you’re looking to do that the whole time, your options are limited and you’ll spend a load of money no matter how frugally you try to do it.

Know what you’re here for and don’t come to be entertained—unless you’re a sex tourist. And don’t come to Africa just to hang out with other white people. Sitting around drinking with white people is quite expensive in Africa. A flashpacker coming to Africa is going to get killed money-wise. To sit around in a huddle drinking beer and going online to post photos on Facebook is going to cost you a fortune.

Negotiate Hard for Everything
“Africa has a reputation for trying to rip off foreigners, especially West Africa. I had a much harder time before I learned to speak French. In Ghana and parts of East Africa they speak English and don’t’ make everything such a hassle, so it’s easier.

Whether we admit it or not, we white travelers have these preconceived notion of black people. We expect people to act a certain way and look for ways to support that expectation. But they’re mostly Just normal people trying to make a living. On one hand it’s so safe here in Tome you practically have to leave money on the table overnight to get physically robbed. But they’ll try to rob you blind in every transaction all day long because they’re used to white people being idiots. All these NGO and project workers have practically unlimited budgets. Lots of them will stay in the best hotels, drink beer every night, and go out to the best restaurants. So business owners become accustomed to charging ever white person five times as much as a local because they truly think we’re all rich and stupid with our money.

You have to keep money in perspective and prove you’re not an idiot. A guy tried to charge me $8 today for wire ties at a store. I told him ‘You’re crazy. You’re probably living on $2 a day, right?’

‘No,” he tells me, ‘Just $1 a day.’

Much of Africa earning that $1 to $2 a day. Treat $20 like it’s nothing and people will keep charging you accordingly.

It’s hard for us to look at a black person and say, ‘You’re f%cking ripping me off!’ We’re so conditioned to think that’s racist. We think we’re supposed to treat them with extra respect because their life sucks. But their life doesn’t suck. You’re not “dissing” them to argue or criticize. You have to argue constantly. It’s normal. If you don’t they think you’re another rich idiot working for Oxfam just to fill out the resume.

There’s no political correctness here. In the market people will yell, ‘Hey white guy! Hey fatso! Sexy blondie!’ Learn to talk like they do to get things done.”

Spend the time to get a good hotel deal.
“Anyone charging you $30 a night for a basic hotel room in most of Africa is ripping you off. The tourism industry here is probably the worst on the planet: they try to gouge every white person, assuming they’re all idiots. Many of them are idiots. Outside of big cities and resort areas, paying more than $10 or $15 a night for a basic hotel is absolutely getting ripped off. In

Arrive before noon to have time to find a hotel. Walk in and tell them how much you want to pay. You say $5, they say $30, eventually to your real budget. But you have to have a real budget and stick to it. Be willing to walk out and keep looking.

When I walk into a hotel, they always take me to the best room in the hotel. They can’t believe I don’t want that room, they’re aghast. They slowly work their way down until I’m leaving and they finally show me the $5 room. You have to assume anyone who takes you anywhere is taking you to the most expensive option. Continually refuse and stay on budget, on mission. A basic room with a bulb and bath starts at $5, a table adds a dollar, hot water adds a dollar, and each other thing keeps adding up. But I can go to the best hotel in town and use the pool for a dollar, so why do I need the hotel with a pool? You can rent a room here for a whole month for $50 if you work on it.

You also have to get over the stigma of the ‘chamber de passage.’ Probably 90% of the hotels in Africa are love hotels. There are just not enough traveling salesmen or domestic tourists to support many cheap hotels. So hotel customers are mostly NGO workers at the high end and locals getting some privacy on the low end. Every hotel I go into I assume someone’s going to bring in a girl and go at it next door. But at least there’s always a maid around. They’re private, comfortable, and cheap.

travel in Africa

Cleaning lady at Auberge Beau Sejour in Kara, Togo – $11 per night w/ AC, private shower

Also understand that nothing is ever cleaned like an American would clean it. It’s cleaner than India maybe, but not to the standards of say, Thailand or Vietnam. I’ll get the $8 or $10 room and pay the maid a few bucks to truly clean the bathroom. She’s thrilled and I get a room that’s up to the cleanliness level of one you’d get in Southeast Asia. Otherwise that would be $40 here. But we’re so used to convenience. ‘Why should I have to clean the sink? Or fix the toilet myself?’ Because you’re in a $5 room, that’s why. If you want convenience, get a $50 room.

One important point: traveling with someone else is far cheaper. The room price is the room price-one person pays the same as two. ”

Your guidebook is probably useless.
You won’t find most love hotels listed in your guidebook because the majority of Africa guidebook writers are current or former aid workers. Most of the hotels they recommend have parking because the writers are driving everywhere in a car. The cheaper love hotels people walk to. The outside space is just a shady tree people can sit under and drink a beer. ‘No parking’ means it’s for Africans and will be cheap.

The LP and Rough Guides are both terrible. Many of the writers are completely clueless and have grilled me for hours to get the most basic information. They’re written for people driving a car and staying at hotels that can be reached by car.

Whatever you do don’t rely on TripAdvisor. That’s even worse.

Avoid the Clingons
“When you get off a plane or bus there will be a boy or young man following you around and speaking your language. Often you can spot them before you even get off because they’re the only people in Africa with dreadlocks. They’re aggressive touts pure and simple and I promise you none are ever there to do you a favor. If you’re a woman they’re probably looking for a sugar mama and if you’re a man they’re trying to soak you for whatever they can to be your ‘helper.’ ?

traveling africa cheap

Planning is a waste of time in Africa.
“The more you plan, the more you’re going to screw up. Everything is going to go wrong. It’s much better to just wing it as you go. In any city under 150,000 people I take a taxi tour of the city and say ‘Show me the $10 hotels.’ He’ll take me to the most expensive places first of course no matter what I say. Finally he gets frustrated and takes me to the cheap ones. I’m going to have to invest an hour or two of work to save $10, but I’m going to stay there a week so that’s $70 for two hours of work.

Don’t travel more than 4 hours a day, do it in the morning so you arrive before noon. It’s tiresome and you can run into all sorts of problems. If things go wrong, you’ve got a cushion. An 8-hour trip can easily become 12. The torture of travel often comes from trying to do too much.

Start out in a cheap country like Ghana or Malawi to get your bearings and get over the culture shock. Then you’ll be ready to take on the tougher places.”

Don’t be a bum.
“Being a bum is accepting less than what you deserve in life. Stand your ground and be a king instead. Refuse to get in a vehicle that already has 25 people in it. Just wait for the next one. Someone will say, ‘There are no more cars today.’

‘Bullshit. You’re lying,’ I’ll reply.

Every single time a new empty car or bus shows up soon after.

If you’re not trying to race across vast distances in a hurry, you’ve got more leverage to wait, to negotiate. If you’re willing to walk out of the hotel because they won’t budge, you’ll get a room you like for the right price. Being in a hurry will cost you.

In Ethiopia you have to take a truck overland for more than a day to head out of this one spot. A guy wanted me to ride on the canvas roof of a cattle truck for 27 hours, with cattle horns below me. ‘I’d rather live in this city for the rest of my life than ride on top of that truck for 27 hours,’ I said. I waited around and got on a grain truck where we could sleep on top of the grain sacks. Backpackers go to Africa thinking they have to be a bum. I have back problems so I’ll pay someone a dollar to carry my bag. I require a nice room for $10. What I expect is what I get.”

Get out of the big cities.
“NGO and Peace Corp workers love big cities with their big offices, so there are lots of cafes and bars for white expatriates. That makes many people feel comfortable. But prices for everything are three times more than they’ll be once you get 50 miles out of town. So don’t come all this way just to hang out in Accra, Nairobi, or Dakar.

Budgets don’t get killed by one thing. They get killed by a lot of little things. And every little thing is more in the big cities.

If your mission is to hang around a city and socialize online with your friends back home, why leave home?”

Don’t eat every meal at restaurants.
“African food is generally kind of bland, meant to be filling and fattening. There are far more fat people here than you would expect. It’s hard to get vegetables when you eat out, so I always cook vegetables in the room from a market or store and buy fruit to eat. I used to use a hot plate. You can buy one for $5 a lot of times. But hotel owners don’t like you to use them. So now I use a cheap homemade alcohol cooker.

When looking for a restaurant, don’t eat where white people are. Then study the menu and figure out what you can eat on a budget. Or just tell them what you want and agree on a price. They’ll usually make it for you if they have the ingredients. ”

***

To see what Andy is up to right now, see the Hobo Traveler blog.

If I did include a country in the next edition, it would probably be Ghana or Malawi. This BootsnAll article on traveling in Malawi for $25 a day is encouraging, though it does say you need to sleep in dorm beds and eat what the locals eat. Fortunately eating what the local eat here does not mean bland gruel for three meals a day.

Comments
  1. Panama Fred

    Well, nobody can ever accuse Andy of trying to be diplomatic. He writes the strangest rants on the web – but few have been out there kicking it on their own as long as he has.

  2. Andreas Moser

    I wonder how well Couchsurfing works in Africa.

  3. beks

    Hey,
    Long term subscriber here. I had to stop reading this post about a third of the way through. Why do you assume that all of your readers are white? I am not. Reread this post from a black western perspective – it is off putting. On the third comment of …they will think you are another white person who is stupid with your money…I had to go.

    • Jonathan B.

      Beks – I’ve backpacked around the world for the past 2.5 years. I have probably met a dozen black backpackers from the U.S. Total. I imagine both Tim and Andy have seen the same proportion in their travels. It doesn’t mean leaving you out is fair, but for whatever reason—even in Africa—-we’ve got a better chance of seeing the Big 5 than a non-white backpacker from America.

    • Tim Leffel

      Sorry Beks, no offense meant and thanks for being a long-time reader. I’m not trying to exclude anyone, but rather speaking to the majority of my readers.

      As the other commenter noted, a black backpacker seems even less common than a Canadian without a flag patch on the backpack. I once went for four months without seeing one, including six weeks in Africa. (Northern Africa, but still…) Hispanic and Asian ones, yes, but not African-Americans. Or Even black Brits. Maybe you could do a guest post sometime on why long-term travel seems like a foreign concept with that group?

      Really though, Andy is talking about aid workers and missionaries being the real “stupid white people.” They’re the ones throwing money around like it’s candy. And I’d bet at least 90-some percent of them from Canada, Europe, and the U.S. are causasian. As they have been for hundreds of years there.

  4. REMIMS

    I’m a black woman from the states who has spent a bit of time traveling and Africa was the first place I went, Kenya to be exact. I was there for a summer working with a grassroots org in a rural community Nkubu. I completely understood what the author was saying and agree with all of it…you have to haggle for everything and if that’s not your style many african countries may not be the place for you…it was difficult to get used to at first because there’s a natural inflation based on the color of your skin and I was with a group of whites. Sometimes I could get by on local prices if I’d be quiet and let a local I’d met do the talking for me but most of the time I’d figure out what things SHOULD cost and find a happy medium with whoever I was negotiating with based on my budget.
    And on another note, of all the places I have been I have NEVER met a black-american traveling with the exception of a few ladies I already knew from the states that I met up with. It’s rare. I’m a long time reader as well and I love this blog : )

    • Tim Leffel

      Thanks so much for sharing your experience REMIMS. I appreciate it!

  5. beks

    Tim! Thanks for your response it was kind and I appreciate it. I’m headed to Africa in December and would love to talk about being black American and traveling… especially as a women.

    I’d like to respond to the Jonathan and Remims. You guys are both correct. When I travel out of the country I am usually treated as an anomaly (read: not always kind) for non-black people. Black people where ever I go are excited and very welcoming (although that is also in response to the rarity). That point being acknowledged, I still hold that I do not wish to be excluded from the conversation because I am a minority. I was not disagreeing with the content of his post but to whom the audience was assumed to be. <—This is important to me. I have witnessed much of what post spoke to and have cringed frequently. I have also taken some of the info and hoped that I will be the stupid rich American on less frequent occasions (I certainly have been in the past).

    Lastly @Remims — Maybe we need to start up some kind of black people travel group, I'm certainly not the only one of my friends. My best friend just got back from overseas last week….!! :)

    As you can see I continue to read this feed frequently!! Best to everyone.

  6. Tony

    Hello Tim,

    It’s nice to come upon your blog.

    I tried to check the date of the write-up, but was unable to locate it. Thus, the few “corrections” I am going to give, they probably might not be needed.

    I am aware that the writer of the piece has travelled extensively, and thus it wouldn’t really be nice to dispute what has been written.

    However, as a “local” (from Nigeria) with the “global perspective”, speaking of the location in which I reside (Nigeria); I would not totally agree with everything that was written.

    I would first start with the pictures you used to depict the continent; and I would bluntly say, “they are inaccurate”. There are other locations, cities, towns that would comfortably put up a display of “modernism”. Cities like Lagos or Calabar (lived and worked in both) would attest to this.

    You probably might say that the animals here are few, and I would reply that you probably have not been to the places you’d see some; or have not visited the games reserve. Definitely not as cultivated as the developed countries, if you would love to go visiting the animals; then you would have to visit the woods or deep forests; which might be unsafe for unprepared adventurers.

    I should also like to state that there are other things (again, based on my location) that you could be entertained, apart from the “sex” angle.
    In response to the “Negotiate Hard for Everything”; I would completely agree with you. But, I would like to state that the “suggesting exorbitant prices at the onset” applies to the locals also. Except for places where there are fixed prices (and that happens to be in most hotels), then most sellers usually try to get the “best bargain” for wares they sell. And this could probably be as a result of their wanting to make the most of every transaction, and are not yet exposed to “customer relationship”.

    In response to the “$1 a day” or thereabouts; inevitably, the individual that experienced this; must have visited the “impoverished” part of the location.
    In response to the “Your guidebook is probably useless”; I would totally agree with you. This being that, most acquisition of required information is usually gotten in a hurry; because these individuals are not able to imagine the relevance of the information gotten.

    “Planning is a waste of time” – I would not totally agree with you. As long as you can define exactly the way you would like to conduct your daily activities; I am sure you would be able to get these molded to your expectations.

    “Don’t be a bum” – I really do not have an answer to that; except to inquire, “where did the traveller go for the vacation?”. ‘Cause, there are all kinds of convenient means of transportation. For example, in Calabar (I mentioned the city earlier); you can get a comfortable taxi to take you to almost any destination within the city, for $2 – $3. And you don’t have to share that with anyone. So, I think, it depends on what you are willing to spend.

    “Get out of the big cities” – I wouldn’t consider that a good idea. Because, if you’d like some form of “civilization”; it starts with the big cities.

    Lastly, “Don’t eat every meal at restaurants” – I can reassure you comfortably; that whatever combination of health-induced meals you would like to get; you are able to get them. Another point to note, is that most of these produce are “naturally grown”!

    Conclusively, I would say, visiting Africa, is like visiting any other location on Earth. Once you arrive, familiarize yourself with the environment, and probably befriend a local (we might not speak with the same “tongue”; but I assure we have lots of educated, English-speaking individuals to interact with); and you would definitely get a hang of things in the environment you choose to stay.
    Having resided in most parts of the country, I am certain I can speak with some form of authority.
    Thank you!

  7. Ramona

    I find this thread fascinating! Thanks to Tim for writing his first book, I read it with great excitement before I started living and teaching abroad. I’m a black American woman of 57, and I’ve been traveling independently, and on the cheap since I was 18 years old. I appreciated the insider info. about traveling in Africa because I would love to see more of the continent (been to 4 countries so far). Most of what I read usually stresses how expensive it can be for foreigners, and/or laments the lack of tourism infrastructure in some areas. I also want to add that many times I’m not recognized as American. I have been mistaken for many other ethnicities….. possibly because wherever I’m visiting I try to keep a low profile and blend into the local scene as much as possible.

  8. Allison

    As someone who has lived in many countries, currently lives in the US and grew up in Africa and Europe, I find this to be an extremely disrespectful, misleading and disappointing article about Africa, which is a huge continent, with much diversity: ‘African food is generally kind of bland, meant to be filling and fattening. There are far more fat people here than you would expect.’ Really? Arrogant much?

    • Tim Leffel

      Andy is not known for holding back. He’s probably been to more African countries than you and I added together though, and has documented much of what he’s saying on his blog to support the points he has made. Almost every blogger I’ve read who’s been through West Africa talks about how many fat people there are. One said, “I have yet to see a thin woman over the age of 25.” People don’t expect that, so it’s fair to point out.

  9. christa

    whenever i’ve travelled africa (both west and east coasts), i’ve stay with either friends or friends of friends, as do the black folks i know in america. my guess is that this may be why you don’t see black americans on the backpacking/low budget hotel trail. it’s an entirely different scene with a different level of access when you kick it with locals.

  10. Egyptian

    Thank you for your valuable review. But I feel that your language show a lot of superiority & racism. I think if European were in the same conditions , they would be dealing similarly. African are victims of colonization and postcolonization era. In my country Egypt, the worst people usually work in tourism. Yes , that is real cos white tourist come for fun (wine ,nightlife & brothels). only bad people accept to work in these places according to Islam & even local traditions. Modern tourism industry implies bringing odd cultures ( western) to your home country. That is totally wrong. If there is a way to make tourist deal with true locals ( not tourism professionals) , including some respect for local traditions, I think it will be much better for all of us. Tourist will deal with better people , cheaper prices and in the same time local culture would be preserved. I do not know if this can be reality one day.

  11. Jerome

    I traveled around Africa for two years ending this past June and this is one of the most clear-eyed, accurate things I’ve read on what it’s like there if you’re not just coming for a two-week safari. It may not sound politically correct, but there area lot of messes there, ones created on home soil and ones imported from idiots abroad. The people on the ground are usually powerless to do much to combat either.

  12. Michelle

    It was interesting as an African American to experience the dumb American treatment in Mexico. Most people I encountered didn’t think I understood the language and spoke about me as if I wasn’t there or knew what my money was worth. I understood what was happening immediately and decided keep my money to myself. The idea that living on $1,000 a month IS cheap if your using US standards. But we shouldn’t be using US standards of living in other countries. If we can afford $1,000 a month, we can get retirement status (basically buying citizenship) because the locals are more than likely living off less than $1,000 a year. What has been created is special status for people who have money. I heard tourism money helps the local economy. However, paying higher prices makes the prices go up, we don’t necessarily if it actually helps the economy and eventually it won’t be cheap anywhere. Heck, it’s not cheap now.

Leave A Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *